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if this piece is part of a machine, or is subjet of tension forces, impacts, etc ... i dont think these resins are adecuate, in my short experience, funtodo industrial and castable.
i will be using my prints as masters, making vulcanized rubber molds to get final pieces.
anyway there is post about your question
Statistics: Posted by sodium — Sun May 17, 2015 12:26 pm
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So resin may not be the way forward then?
Statistics: Posted by Richie4588 — Sun May 17, 2015 11:56 am
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I mention this because the resistance of these resins is not comparable to the injected plastic, like ABS, etc ...
Statistics: Posted by sodium — Sun May 17, 2015 11:21 am
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I’m looking to build a 3D printer (as I can’t afford to buy one).
I would rather build one from scratch but would consider buying a kit.
The part was originally designed to be machined but the cost per part is way too high.
I will only ever be printing the same part for small production runs (approx 6 per day).
The main things I am struggling with are,
1.What size bed to use?
The part is approx 150mm X 150mm X 30mm high.
It would be ideal to print more than one part each time but not essential.
2.Which resolution?
The part is going to be electroplated so needs to have the best finish possible straight off the printer.
The part doesn’t have any fine detail.
3.Which type?
DLP looks good for speed but the most important things are,
•Rigidity
•Strength
•Consistency
•Accuracy
Is it an option to use the CLIP (Continuous Liquid Interface Production) used on the Carbon 3D printer?
I was hoping that if I had the answers to these questions it would be possible to find (or purchase) a detailed part list and set of instructions?
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Regards
Richard
Statistics: Posted by Richie4588 — Sun May 17, 2015 7:08 am
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