I think that either a foam weather strip with a layer of silicone or some type of thin strip that is bent into a "U" shape might work. Maybe cloth that is silicone impregnated.
I don't know if there will be any time for this over the next couple days or not but I thought that it might be good to stir the creative juices out there.
Statistics: Posted by sitzme — Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:30 am
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Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:30 pm
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Statistics: Posted by sitzme — Thu Dec 19, 2013 10:58 am
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You can get cheap ones with a torque up to 40kg/cm an more. It's very easy to control servos, they are very strong, their accuracy should be sufficient. Also there is no need for a second stepper driver.
Statistics: Posted by maxman — Wed Dec 18, 2013 2:59 pm
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Bad news is that when I cleaned my vat the coating was damaged in the area of the last prints. I will try some prints on the other end and then may try a couple on bare glass.
The plan is to use a move of;
G1Z1
G1Z1X7
instead of a straight ramp to put some tension on the glass and then slide to help it release.
I also played with some clear plastic film between the glass and resin. It released really well but I can't see how to keep it flat. Even pulling a vacuum between the plastic and glass would probably fail due to air bubbles based on some vacuum bagging experience.
Statistics: Posted by sitzme — Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:11 pm
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Time will tell what the most effective method(s) is. Being either easy to build or reasonable to purchase will probably be a factor. A cam slot would be another variation with motion similar to johnrpm's. Another option would be an eccentric pin on the basic tilt mechanism to provide the initial force to shear and separate. I am a fan of simple and hope that a bullet proof method to adhere to the build plate and separate from the vat is found.
For tonight I only roughed up the build plate. It was originally ground and you couldn't feel and scratches with a finger nail. Approx a 32 finish with some dings from laying around. I started the roughing process by scoring the surface with a utility knife about every .38" and then hit it with a 24 grit wheel on an angle grinder briefly. Very little material was removed. The scoring left raised material that I thought would damage the Sylgard during the slide.
Statistics: Posted by sitzme — Thu Dec 05, 2013 11:05 pm
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which will explain better than I.
Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Wed Dec 04, 2013 3:05 pm
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to slide the vat and then tilt it down, the other end slides on small bearings.
At the present time I do not know what forces are needed, and if the stepper is up to the job,
but it would not be hard to fit a bigger one if needed.
I still need to cut the aperture for the glass plate, but will mount the projector in position
and mark on the vat the actual display area, then cut it out.
more info as I progress.
Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Wed Dec 04, 2013 6:30 am
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